A full-circle moment for milliner Kathryn Lee

Milliner Kathryn Lee triumphed in the 2024 prestigious Lillian Frank AM MBE Millinery Award, securing Australia’s top accolade for headwear design. Her standout creation, the ‘It Girl’ hat, earned her a $5,000 cash prize within a prize pool exceeding $37,000, along with an editorial feature in Vogue Australia.

Lee’s winning design was an homage to the 1960s, a decade she describes as having a “beautiful resurgence” in contemporary fashion.

From the collections of luxury houses like Chanel and Celine to the racks of high-street shops, the bold aesthetics of the era inspired Lee’s ‘It Girl’ hat.

Her creative process centred on hand dyed vintage viscose in a signature candy pink shade, complemented by intricate couture beading techniques. The addition of semi-precious stones – Malaysian jade, rose quartz, and moonstone – brought an organic quality to the design. “I was drawn to incorporating precious stones that aren’t perfect but more rustic in nature. They paired beautifully with the traditional glass and seed beads, elevating the design to another level,” she says.

Lee’s meticulous craftsmanship is evident in every detail, including the 35 hours of hand-beading required for the hat. Despite the labour-intensive nature of the task, she recalls the process fondly: “It was a labour of love, but the real challenge lay in working with the semi-precious stones – their weight meant careful consideration of distribution, and knowing when to stop adding more was crucial.”

The ‘It Girl’ hat encapsulates a spirit of individuality, which Lee believes every woman deserves on race day. She describes the hat as having “a definite helmetlike quality, but with all the glamour and sophistication of the 1960s”, embodying the liberation and independence that defined the era. “The ‘It Girl’ is like wearing your own piece of armour, standing out in a bold and striking way,” she explains.

Winning the Lillian Frank Millinery Award holds a personal significance for Lee, who began her career at the Lillian Frank Toorak salon as a teenager.

“This is a full-circle moment,” she shares. Professionally, the recognition offers a platform to expand her label and explore new opportunities. “The Vogue editorial feature is a pinnacle moment in my career, allowing me to share my story and modern vintage aesthetic with a wider audience.”

Lee also reflects on the evolving art of millinery, noting a delicate balance between tradition and contemporary innovation. While millinery has simplified in step with fashion trends, she values the traditions preserved through racing fashion. “These traditions help preserve our beautiful craft from being diluted and lost,” she observes.

Her advice to aspiring milliners is equally rooted in authenticity and resilience. “Push yourself outside your comfort zone and don’t second-guess yourself – it’s such a waste of time.”

For those considering entering the competition, Lee emphasises confidence and originality:

“Be authentic in your design. You’ll do your best work when it truly reflects who you are.”Ultimately, Lee views millinery as a powerful tool for self-expression. “Millinery is an extension of your personality,” she says. “Whether it’s a simple headband or a show stopping piece of art, it says a lot about who you are. The wonderful thing is that this can change on any given day, depending on who you want to be and how you want to
be perceived.”